Looking at the unassuming, revamped convenience store tucked into the woods, it’s a little tough to imagine that inside, a gastronomic powerhouse is firing on all cylinders. That is, if you were even able to find the joint in the first place.
Since its opening, The Alna Store has been showered with praise by Maine food critics and national awards alike (including big nods from the James Beard Foundation). But looking around the dining room on any given weeknight, it’s clearly the locals they care most about. And, it turns out, being remote was a very deliberate choice that has everything to do with why this unpretentious food is so darn remarkable.
“I think of Maine and I think of regenerative agriculture,” says co-owner Jasper Ludwig, who grew up in nearby Newcastle and used to frequented The Alna Store as a kid, when it was owned by family friends. “Being where we are gives us the most direct access to food from all of the surrounding farms.” She moved out West for college, where she later met her partner Brian Haskins, and they opened 5 Points—a much-lauded restaurant and market in Tucson dedicated to gorgeous local food and sustainable agriculture.
Moving back to Maine with Brian came with the dream of opening a new venture in that same vein, this time in her childhood stomping ground—a rural town of only 700 people. They took the space down to its studs, creating a beautiful enclave with a bar slicing through its middle, a humming open kitchen on one side, and a homey dining room and marketplace on the other. The duo also brought on talents like chef Devin Dearden (formerly of Evo and Scales in Portland, and Hearth in New York City), pastry chef Kristen LaMontagne, and sous-chef Clara Kazarov.
Which brings us to the reason we’re all here: the food. Because of the team’s laser focus on seasonality, change is constant on the menu. But there are other constants, too: adventurous yet elegantly simple flavor pairings and dishes inspired by international traditions, all made from the freshest ingredients grown by neighbors—the backbone of The Alna Store’s sustainable mission.
One night, that might mean a deep ruby bluefin tuna tartare with dots of Asian pear, pine nuts, and spectacularly fried chips from Goranson Farm potatoes; the latter shatter against the sweet, jewel-like fish. The next evening, you could be facing down a plate of chicken fried steak. That may sound like a Swanson TV Dinner—until the first bite, with its rich hunter’s sauce redolent of mushroom and shallot, has you pining for all things French and comforting.
So many creations—including Kristen’s extraordinary pastries—are boosted by the subtle and clever alchemy afoot in the kitchen, from Devin’s saucing techniques to Clara’s background in fermentation, which finds its way into preserves, kimchi, and the black garlic that studs so many dishes.
Throughout the year, The Alna Store will mix things up and keep palates guessing with themed menus, focusing on a single country or region. So, for two weeks it might be Korea, or France, or Italy, and so on. Other times, you’ll stumble upon special seasonal dinners seemingly out of the blue. One thing to never miss? Brunch. It’s very much its own animal with its own justifiable cult. One taste of the Moxie-glazed pork belly, and no further explanation will be required. Just further bites. ▪
