Dawn Gintz makes no bones about her relationship to the building she’s standing in. “This incredible place was created by him and his family,” she says, pointing to a framed drawing of Captain Albert Vinal Nickels, who built the nine-room Italianate home in 1874. Dawn and her daughter Cassidy have lovingly restored the building since buying it in 2019, reopening it as Captain Nickels Inn. “We’re just a part of its ongoing history,” she insists. The property’s electric green lawn and Penobscot Bay shine through the windows behind her as she continues: “The way I see it, we’re keeping that legacy going and adding our ideas to it.”
And that gracious perspective isn’t limited to the venerable property, either; it’s found throughout the surrounding towns of Searsport and Belfast. Both communities’ 19th-century dominance in maritime trade and shipbuilding left behind a smattering of architecturally stunning buildings. And just as Dawn and Cass are adding their fresh perspectives (think beautifully sleek showers, modern tech, and clean-lined luxury suites), so is a cadre of clever and quirky creatives around the area using local history as a backdrop. And to witness it, all you need do is take a drive around and make a few well-chosen stops.
Minutes down Route 1, cheeky nods to Searsport’s maritime past (its deep harbor made it an ideal launch for trade with far-flung ports) are on the menu at Hey Sailor!, the retro-cool spot serving up potent drinks like the Singapore Sling and a roster of superlative tacos. It’s great fuel for taking in contemporary works of art by international artists with an ecological focus at Parsonage Gallery, around the corner on Elm Street in a classic Federalist-style estate. (Incidentally, all of downtown Searsport is designated a Federal Historic District.) Across East Main Street awaits Trove, where Laura Brown neatly displays handmade crafts, decor, and works of art she discovers and finds “unusually beautiful or very useful.”
Already jonesing for a snack? You will be once you set eyes on the buttery croissants at Coastal Cafe & Bakery, where the mascot is a puffin and, chef-owner Patrick Kelley assures us, “Absolutely everything is made from scratch.” Next door, in the 1891 building with the stunning mansard roof, is Splendiferous Sweet Shoppe. If you’re lucky, you’ll drop in on a day when owner Meryem Rogan and her mom, Deanne, have dressed up as Alice in Wonderland characters to peddle their handmade candies. “We have so much fun,” shares Meryem. “We want everyone else to, too.” On your way out of town toward Belfast, swing into Rio’s. Come to witness its design hodgepodge of graphic black and white hexagons and neon lights; stay for the delectable paella puffs and a chat with affable Scottish-American co-owner Russell—who will gladly let you in on how the Scots really feel about haggis (Hint: It’s not as popular as you might think!).
Keep driving along Route 1 and you’ll arrive on Main Street in the Belfast Historic District, home to one of the state’s largest collections of pre-Civil War buildings, spotlighting Greek Revival, Italianate, and Federal architecture. And housed in much of it is a jumble of shops that veer from upscale (as in, Dee Bielenberg’s Man on Main, home to upscale and custom menswear) to eclectic. The latter applies to Yo Mamma’s gift shop—described as “a cheeky little department store” by owner Beverly Mann—packed with everything from handmade jewelry to tea towels, much of it by Belfast artisans. Strolling down the street toward the harbor, you’ll come upon even more snacking opportunities, like the apricot-lemon scone and fastidiously made cappuccino (“We roast all our own beans,” says proud owner Nathaniel Baer) at Downshift Coffee, a sleek and symbiotic cafe-meets-bike shop.
Stroll further down the hill, cross the street, and duck into Brambles, where you’ll be greeted by a mélange of garden benches, planters, and outdoor sculptures at the doorstep. Inside is no less quirky: Owner Lisa Duhamel is a true original, and so is her perch—a rare mix of everything from esoteric gardening tools and botanically shaped wall hooks to hand-carved granite doorstops. “I stock anything that speaks to me and gives customers joy,” she says. For example? “When I see that people love finding mermaids or octopuses to put in their gardens, I get more.”
Then you’ve got some tough dining decisions to make. There are the family-owned Laan Xang Cafe; or a topnotch charcuterie platter washed down with a craft ale at Marshall Wharf Brewing Co. From around the corner comes the siren call of local seafood at Harborwalk Restaurant. With its creaky wooden booths and old-school nautical tchotchkes, the place isn’t about to let you forget Belfast’s seafaring past. Then again, once you savor the kitchen’s haddock Reuben while soaking up the view of the glimmering Passagassawakeag River, you won’t want to either. ▪
